Chessy

• Product description

  "Chessy is designed to slot into your closet with the likes of your favorite flannel or chore jacket, a buttery-soft and lightweight layer to throw on for whatever errands life throws at you. Doubled hems and finishings keep everything crisp, a box pleat at the center back yoke allows for easy movement, and a variety of patch pockets carry whatever trinkets you may need.

  Choose from three body lengths to suit your preference, and knit either drapey bloused or classic tapered sleeves before joining everything together for the hybrid shirt yoke. Balancing stretches of meditative stockinette with lots of knitterly details, this piece just might become your next wardrobe staple." — designer, Mary Weaver
  

  Designer: Mary Weaver

  Collection: Sweater Season

  View the Sweater Season Lookbook

  Share on social: #ChessyJacket

   

• Pattern materials

  YARN

  Brooklyn Tweed Imbue Sport — 190 yards (174 meters) per 50g skein

  • 11-14 (12-15, 13-16, 13-17) (14-18, 15-19, 16-20) (17-21, 18-22, 19-23, 19-24) skeins
  • Photographed in color Peat

  You may choose to knit from six variations:

  • Semi-Cropped Version, Tapered Sleeve
  • Semi-Cropped Version, Bloused Sleeve
  • Classic Version, Tapered Sleeve
  • Classic Version, Bloused Sleeve
  • Tall Version, Tapered Sleeve
  • Tall Version, Bloused Sleeve

  Three sizes of optional patch pockets may also be added to any version. See Full Pattern Specs for skein counts and yardage for each version.

  
  

  YARDAGE

  • 1975-2585 (2120-2755, 2320-2965, 2470-3140) (2620-3315, 2770-3485, 2950-3685) (3125-3885, 3260-4035, 3455-4260, 3575-4395) yards [1806-2363 (1939-2518, 2121-2720, 2239-2870) (2396-3030, 2533-3186, 2697-3369) (2858-3552, 2981-3689, 3159-3895, 3269-4018) meters] of sport weight wool yarn

  
  

  NEEDLES

  • Suggested Size: US 3 (3.32 mm)
  • One 32” (80 cm) circular (or longer as preferred)
  • One set of double pointed needles (DPNs)

  
  

• Pattern specs

  CONSTRUCTION

  • The sleeves are worked circularly beginning with a doubled cuff. Stitches are cast on provisionally, and the cuff is worked in stockinette stitch to double the finished length with a purl ridge turning round at the midpoint. Then the cuff is folded in half toward the WS on the turning round and joined, with one round of live stitches being worked together with the provisionally cast-on stitches.
  • The sleeves are then shaped with either bloused or tapered increases and worked even to the underarm. At the end of each sleeve, stitches are placed on hold for the underarm.
  • Back, left front, and right front hems are worked flat separately starting with an Italian Tubular Cast On and double-knit hem. German short rows are worked at the side edges to shape the hem curves, and the hems are joined to be worked together for the main body.
  • The body is worked flat to the underarm. Upon completion of the body, stitches around side markers are placed on hold for the underarms when joining body and sleeves.
  • Body and sleeves are then joined to work the yoke in one piece, with held underarm stitches from body and sleeves mirroring each other. Yoke is worked with seamless hybrid shaping, beginning with two rates of raglan decreases.
  • Once the raglan decreases are completed, a box pleat is worked at the center back before the remaining sleeve stitches are used to create saddles to join the front and back shoulders.
  • Each saddle is worked toward the center of the body by working across saddle stitches only and consuming stitches from the front and back on alternating rows, with the front neck shaped using short rows before the front half of the saddle is bound off and work continues with decreases for the back neck until the saddle reaches the center back.
  • Stitches from the first saddle are placed on hold while the second saddle is worked to mirror it, then the saddle stitches are joined using Grafting.
  • Stitches are picked up along each center front edge and the front bands are worked flat to double their finished length with a turning row at the midpoint, then folded over and live stitches are tacked down to the WS. Optional buttonholes may be worked on either band.
  • Stitches are picked up around the neck opening and the doubled shirt collar is worked flat, beginning with a set of short rows centered at the back neck to improve the lay of the collar followed by increases to shape the front corners. Once the collar reaches what will be the finished length, a turning row is worked and the second half of the collar is worked with decreases and short rows to mirror the first half. Collar is then folded at the turning row and live stitches are tacked down to the WS.
  • Optional patch pockets may be worked in the knitter’s preferred quantity of any of three different sizes. After wet-blocking, the front edges of the collar are seamed closed, underarm stitches are grafted, and pockets and buttons are sewn onto the garment as desired.

  
  

  FINISHED DIMENSIONS

  1 (2, 3, 4) (5, 6, 7) (8, 9, 10, 11)

  • 43¼ (47¼, 51½, 54¾) (58¼, 62¼, 66¼) (70½, 73¾, 78½, 82)” [110 (120, 131, 139) (148, 158, 168.5) (179, 187.5, 199.5, 208.5) cm] finished circumference at chest
  • See Full Schematic for more sizing information
  • Sample is Size 2, Classic Version with Bloused Sleeves in Imbue Sport Peat. Modeled by Lanae, 5’11”/180.5 cm tall, with 7”/18 cm positive ease.

  Need help picking a size? See our resource page on Selecting a Sweater Size 101.

  
  

  GAUGE

  • 23½ stitches & 38 rows/rounds per 4”/10 cm in stockinette stitch, after blocking

  
  

• Techniques

  Tutorials for all special techniques listed below are included in the pattern:

  • Video — Provisional Crochet Cast On
  • Video — Italian Tubular Cast On
  • Video — German Short Rows
  • Video — Box Pleats
  • Video — Grafting
  • Seaming 101
  • Blocking 101
  • Patch Pockets

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